Outdoor Recreation Trips and Tours
Tradition of Bullfighting on Terceira
A personal perspective by Paulette Burnard
When family and friends ask me what it is like living on a tiny island in the middle of the North Atlantic, I answer in the following way: The Island is beautiful—the Portuguese are friendly—there are wonderful festivals, and the local men fight bulls in the village streets. The response to my last reason is usually “WHY?” In the past I didn’t have a good answer, but I do now. On the Outdoor Recreation “Tradition of Bullfighting on Terceira” tour, I learned not only the “WHY” but the When and How.
Our tour began at the RB Ganadero. This bull ranch is situated on the biggest volcanic crater in the Azores. João, our guide, explained that the local bullfighting tradition began in the early 1700s. Portuguese bullfighting is distinct from other countries in two ways: bulls are not killed and the cavaleiro “horseman” fight on horseback.
Historically, the wealthy were the only ones who could afford to participate in the arena bullfights. The poor did not want to be denied the excitement, so they developed their own brand of bullfighting. “Let’s use a rope and fight in the streets.” The tradition was born.
João explained that kids are exposed to bulls at an early age. He jokingly said, “Sometimes it goes well and sometimes it doesn’t. I know from personal experience. ” We learned that ranch owners separate bulls by age and job. Arena bulls are kept away from people and the road. This makes them fierce and therefore better in the fight. The smaller and more compact rope bulls are kept closer to the road and interact with people. I made note that when bulls are in a herd they are less likely to attack; if alone, they may. You never know when this info will come in handy.
We continued on to the beautiful Quinta do Malhinha equestrian center. We began in the small museum which houses bullfighting memorabilia from the Pamplona family. Here we learned the difference between Portuguese Lusitano and Spanish Andalusian horses and the history of the perfect bullfighting horse, Malhinha.
Next we watched a cavaleiro practice with a cart-bull in the indoor arena. The horse was learning the moves necessary to gracefully and adeptly avoid the bull’s horns. 
After a coffee in the clubhouse, we proceeded to the outside arena where the cavaleiro and an experienced horse practiced with a real, live bull. This was a truly sensory experience--bull, horse and man--eye to eye in a graceful dance, each with its own intelligence and spirit, against the backdrop of Mt Brazil, the ocean, green hills and red tile roofs. It was perfectly quiet except for the gentle sound of hoofs as the horse sidestepped around the bull. It was lovely and in a way, timeless. It felt good to recall, at some basic level, the primal relationship we have with nature and animals.
All this was followed by a relaxing lunch and great conversation with fellow tourists. We ended the trip at the main arena in Angra.
I now have a fuller appreciation for this local tradition and I’m anxious to go the next bullfight. And when life gets tough, I’ll remember what João said about bullfighting—“Sometimes it goes well and sometimes it doesn’t.” Outdoor Recreation has more bullfighting tradition tours coming up this summer.
Call 535-4140 for dates.
Dolphin Watching with Captain Dino
A Personal Perspective Paulette Burnard
It was a beautiful Saturday morning. We all boarded Captain Dino's catamaran and introduced ourselves to each other. Some opted to stay in the cabin and enjoy fresh rolls and cheese and a few of us found a spot outside on the frame that attached the two hulls. This seemed to me the best place to get the full experience.
We cruised out of Praia Harbor and headed for a flock of Cagarro (Cory's Shearwater). These birds seemed to be having a wonderful time circling about, diving, then surfacing, soaring up and angling just so to touch the water with their wingtips. They would actually run on top of the water to get airborne and dive again and again to feed. These birds are underwater acrobats and can dive down to 40 feet to take their prey. Capt. Dino explained that these birds are a good indicator that dolphins may be in the area. But not here, not today-no problem. The birds were a treat in themselves.
We proceeded to Split Rock. The water changed color and as the ocean breeze diminished, the surface became smooth as a lake. The water was so even it felt as though one could water ski. No dolphins though-- but no problem. It was lovely and peaceful.
We slowly motored through the Split Rock divide and came upon those mysterious sea caves that I'd heard so much about. The smoke we saw rising from the cliffs was actually sulfur -a sign of the Azores volcanic origins. Yet again, no dolphins-- but no problem. One can't see those exquisite caves from shore.
We circled back toward Praia. As I resigned myself that we wouldn't see dolphins today, the lyrics from Christopher Cross' "Sailing" drifted into my head:
It's not far down to paradise
At least it's not for me
And if the wind is right you can sail away
And find tranquility
The canvas can do miracles
Just you wait and see
Believe me
It gets the best of me
When I'm sailing
All caught up in the reverie
Every word is a symphony
Won't you believe me
It's not far back to sanity
At least it's not for me
And when the wind is right you can sail away
And find serenity
The canvas can do miracles
Just you wait and see
Believe me
So what if there weren't any dolphins. Não faz mal.
Quinta do Martelo
A Cultural and Culinary Adventure
A Personal Perspective by Paulette Burnard
Walking through Quinta do Martelo is stepping back in time. The artful architectural reconstruction of the buildings gives instant insight into life as it was 500 years ago. This richly restored, historical farm re-creates traditional Terceiran life from the first settlements to the early 1900s. Quinta do Martelo is a reflection of the beauty of a simpler time.
Upon arrival, Marco, our Outdoor Recreation guide, pointed out the flag which was once used to alert the miller that grain was available to be ground. Now the flag means that the Farm is open to welcome visitors.
It was a genuine pleasure winding my way through the lovely grounds leading to 19th century Azorean houses and workshop exhibits. It's through this collection of buildings that history comes alive. My favorite was the pottery shop, where we saw the old kiln and tile molds. Of particular interest was the area where oxen were used to tamp down the clay to soften it. The tinsmith, carpentry, blacksmith, shoemaker, basket maker workshops all evoked a profound appreciation for the ingenuity of this preindustrial technology.
In the 1600s the Farm was a series of orange tree groves where the citrus was grown, packed and exported to Europe. Loquat trees growing along the paths are a living reminder of the Farm's transition from citrus to loquat brandy production in the 19th century. 
Our walk took us past fountains, a triangle-shaped wooden structure used for storing corn, stone walled pig pens, old cisterns, wine presses, animals, flowers-really, all too much to recount but not too much to fully appreciate.
We were treated to traditional appetizers in a quaint grocery store, where it was fun looking at jars and tins filled with this and that, mousetraps and other gadgets, along with fresh organically grown vegetables.
We had an appetite by now and it's a good thing. Our meal in the restaurant was amazing. We started with a delicious vegetable soup, followed by Alcatra (both meat and fish), vegetables, spareribs, sausages, yams and two different kinds of dessert. All food is organically grown on the estate. I can see why this restaurant has won awards.
When my family visits I'll bring them here. It would be a real pleasure to stay in one of the lodgings offered at Quinta do Martelo which combines traditional ambience with modern comforts, including a beautiful swimming pool with a view of the ocean.
Go "Down Under" with Outdoor Recreation
Cave Exploring
My Personal Perspective by Paulette Burnard
65 FSS Marketing Director
In this case Down Under isn't Australia -rather it's going "down under" into two very different volcanic caves, deep in the heart of Terceira.
The first cave on our Outdoor Recreation tour was Gruta do Natal, "Christmas Cave." It was a very cool experience, both literally and figuratively, to explore this 700 meter lava tube. First we put on our helmets. This made me feel like I was about to do some serious spelunking (caving). The helmets are designed to protect those adventurous enough to explore some of the several small interior tubes with low ceilings. The main cave itself has very high ceilings, is well lit, and is easy to navigate.
The entrance to Gruta do Natal is through a traditional house with photo displays of christenings, masses and weddings that occurred in the cave.
Then on to Algar do Carvão, which is a huge 100 meter long lava tube--the empty tunnel of a lava flow. The name means coal pit and was given to the cave because the dark black lava walls look like coal. Helmets are not required because this cave is really like an enormous pit - an incredibly beautiful cavern in the earth filled with grottos and stalagmites and stalactites.
Entering this cave was a rather eerie experience. We passed through a long vaulted tunnel lit with torch-style lights on the walls. This shaft was a past vent of the lava flow. The tunnel descends into a chimney of this extinct volcano which is covered with ferns, and opens up to the sky. Just breathtaking!
We met our guide who gave us an overview of the cave's geological history. This spacious cave is sometimes referred to as a cathedral and has great acoustics. Concerts are actually held here. I'd love to experience that sometime.
We descended down the steps to an amazing subterranean lake. This pool of crystal-clear water was created by rain.
After Algar do Carvao we went to the Furnas do Enxofre sulfuric springs-more evidence of the volcanic origins of Terceira. Sulfur fumaroles are openings in the earth's crust found close to volcanoes. Seeing and smelling this hot sulfuric steam coming out of the earth was another eerie experience.
The trip was made all the richer because of our Outdoor Recreation guide, Marco Mendonca. On the way to the caves he pointed out where we were on the map and explained the road system. He also gave us some cultural insights. This is bull fighting season. He told us that it is a tradition for kids to play with young bulls in the farmers' arenas. He explained that if bulls are in groups they are safe. However, bulls are dangerous if alone, because they feel threatened. I guess this information could come in handy if you ever encounter a bull down under in Australia.
4x4 Photo Tour
See the Island in a totally different way.
Off Road - On Track
My Perspective by Paulette Burnard
Marketing Director, 65th Services Squadron
Outdoor Recreation’s 4x4 Photo Tour is an exciting way to experience the spectacular beauty of the remote areas of Terceira. This trip blends the adventure of “off roading” with the serene and gentle beauty of back country vistas.
This tour is not the extreme 4x4 action that one would expect in places like Baja or Moab, in an ATV or dune buggy. Rather, it is a comfortable ride, punctuated by a few bumps, maybe a bit of a slide sideways now and again, and if you’re lucky, an occasional thrill depending on the road conditions.
On to Porto Judeu where we drove down a narrow path to a famous house, built in 1567, which is now in ruins. Senhor Bento told us the legend of how the Spanish were turned back to Salga Bay by the farm workers and wild bulls. The area is now a banana plantation.
We trekked around several more remote areas as well as a brief stop at Lagoa das Patas (Duck Lake). I was especially impressed with the Caldeira Guilherme Moniz, the biggest volcano on the island. Rodrigo pointed out that there is an arena inside the volcano.
This is a trip where one needs to be flexible because there is no firm itinerary. All depends on the weather and road conditions. It’s just part of the fun. “I’m going to bring my parents on this trip, when they come to visit this spring,” said Melissa Wesley, a member of our group. “I know they will love it as much as I did.” Rodrigo is a professional photographer and took great pictures of our day. As a memento we each received a photo CD.
We had a great lunch at Ti Choa and the staff treated us wonderfully. I’d like to go back on a Friday night when they cook bread in the old-style oven.
Outdoor Recreation schedules the 4X4 Photo Tour on a regular basis. Victor Silva, Outdoor Recreation Director, wants people to know that ODR will work with you on scheduling this tour and others to meet your individual schedule.
Heart of Angra
See the Historical beauty of the city of Angra do Heroísmo, visit the Fortress of São João Baptista, Palace of the Captain Generals and the Museum. Bring your camera and take memorable pictures of Terceira Island.
My Perspective by Paulette Burnard
Marketing Director, 65th Services Squadron
Lajes Outdoor Recreation does an outstanding job of connecting our community with Terceira. The Heart of Angra tour highlights the important historical and cultural areas of this world heritage city. But the tour is more than just sightseeing. The Heart of Angra tour offers an experience.
Our tour guide, Al Azera from Outdoor Recreation, puts his heart in sharing the beauty and history of his city. Our small group not only benefited from his expertise and enjoyed his easy going style.
This tour began at the top of Monte Brasil where we had a wonderful view of the natural amphitheatre of the city. Then on to the Fortress of Sao Joao, which simply has to be experienced while on the Island. We all got to know each other during our delicious and leisurely lunch at Adega Lusitania and then we proceeded to the Palace of Captain Generals. We walked through the Angra Garden, visited the Angra museum and Convent of Sao Francisco. Our group finished up at the Angra Cathedral where we happened upon a young man playing the cello. It was a delightful experience.
After this trip, I feel a bit more connected to the Island. I look forward to sharing my experience with family and friends when they visit. I’ll be able to tell them what I learned from Al. I’ll try to put as much heart into it as he did.
A Taste of the Northern Coast
Travel to the mysterious town of Biscoitos for a tour of the Vineyards, Winery and Museum.
A Personal Perspective By Paulette Burnard
Marketing Director, 65th Services, Lajes Field
This Outdoor Recreation tour captures not only a taste of the Northern Coast but its many textures as well. The tastes we experienced embraced samples from the Wine Museum in Biscoitos, "Honey Moonshine" and interesting liquors and other wines at Jose Salvador's winery, as well as the delicious cuisine offered by the Restaurante Caneta.
The textures of this region are amazingly varied:
- The feel of the rock walls arranged into square beds designed to protect vines from the salt; these walls also serve to keep the vines warm as the grapes ripen and sweeten
- The texture of the ancient wooden barrels where the wine ages to achieve its full flavor
- The feel of the old stone presses that once coaxed the grape into giving up its liquid
- And the feel of the smooth, solid vines that the basket maker fashioned into a basket right before our eyes
The Taste of the Northern Coast tour was delightful. What a treat it was to be able to leisurely enjoy the pattern of fields with the Atlantic as a backdrop-- without the responsibility of driving. And as a bonus, Al Azera our ODR guide and driver, was available to answer our questions and point out areas of interest.
Our trip began at Jose Salvador's Winery where enjoyed sampling the wines and liquors. The owner, Senior Salvador gave us each a bottle of his Honey Moonshine. Then on to the Wine Museum, a real must see, while in Terceira. Each guest walked away with a complimentary bottle of wine and lots of information about the history of wine making in the area. Next we visited a basket maker, famous for his ability to make any basket to order. 
Our tour concluded with the church and folk museum in Altares-both offering its own compliment of textures for us to enjoy. And to round out the "Taste of the Northern Coast", the museum staff gave us all some delicious Portuguese tea, grown by the owner of the museum.
It's delicious.
